Big Cypress National Preserve – Where the River of Grass Flows

A great blue heron taking flight.

Tamiami Trail, Florida.

And the last time I walked in the swamp
I sat upon a Cypress stump
I listened close, and I heard the ghost of Osceola cry

Seminole Wind by John Anderson

A remarkable alliance emerged in the face of a proposed central Florida jetport threatening the heart of the Everglades in the 1960s. Local conservationists, sportsmen, environmentalists, and Seminole and Miccosukee tribes joined forces, setting aside their differences for a common purpose. Their dedication culminated in establishing Big Cypress National Preserve on October 11, 1974, creating the first national preserve of its kind.

On our journey through Florida, we left Naples toward U.S. Highway 41, the Tamiami Trail. In a previous post, I shared images of our first views of the Everglades via airboat. Our next stop was to be Everglades National Park. Only about five minutes down the road, though, we were distracted by the signs for Big Cypress National Preserve and the Nathaniel P. Reed Visitor Center. Of course, we stopped. We discovered that the visitor center offers exhibits about the preserve’s plants, animals, and history.

Boardwalk behind the visitor center.

The friendly staff member at the center advised us on the best way from here to enter Everglades National Park. She mentioned The Shark Valley Visitor Center, just off U.S. 41, as the place to go. She also told us about the Big Cypress National Preserve and how it came to be.

Mural at the Visitor Center

The concept of a national preserve arose from negotiation and compromise. The Big Cypress Swamp could have been added to Everglades National Park, which had already been established in the 1940s. Concerns existed, however, that stricter national park regulations would limit access to the swamp. This compromise led to the creation of a national preserve. The new land management category would ensure protection for the ecosystem while allowing for specific, Congressionally-approved activities within the preserve’s boundaries. As a result, the preserve would enable the availability of canoes, kayaks, swamp buggy tours, and other venues that might have been severely constrained or forbidden in the National Park structure.

View from the boardwalk.

Before its designation as a national preserve, the Big Cypress area was utilized in diverse ways. Recognizing the importance of these traditions, the US Congress included provisions within the enabling legislation to allow for the continuation of six key activities: hunting, oil and gas exploration, off-road vehicle use, private land ownership, traditional practices of the Miccosukee and Seminole tribes, and cattle grazing. These activities, which wouldn’t usually be permitted in a national park, reflect the unique history and ongoing cultural significance of the Big Cypress. We were invited to step behind the building and take a walk on the Visitor Center Boardwalk. The short walk gave us a glimpse of the preserve and, by extension, the Everglades.

View from the boardwalk.

The Miccosukee and Seminole people have called Big Cypress and the Everglades home for generations. Their connection to this land remains dynamic as they continue to access resources in ways their ancestors practiced. This includes harvesting timber for traditional “chickees” (Native American dwellings) and gathering plants and animals for personal use. The establishment of Big Cypress National Preserve recognizes and safeguards this enduring legacy, ensuring the Miccosukee and Seminole tribes can continue their traditional way of life within the preserve.

View from the boardwalk.

Though there is plenty to see and do at the preserve, we decided to save our exploration of the Everglades to the National Park, some 30 minutes down the Tamiami Trail. On our way, we passed the preserve’s other visitor center, the Oasis Visitor Center. The preserve is open 24 hours a day. The two visitor centers are closed on December 25. Best of all, there is no fee to visit the preserve. In fact, 2024 is an excellent year to visit, with several special events planned. October 11 is Big Cypress’s 50th anniversary. Keep an eye on their webpage as details of upcoming events are added to the site. Much of the information for this post was gathered from their website here.

The visitor center is staffed by National Park Service personnel and has a bookstore, a gift shop, and other amenities typical of National Park properties. It’s an excellent place to learn about the park and get oriented before you head out on the trails or explore the preserve. You can find 2K HD versions of the images in this post on my Flickr site here.

John Steiner

14 comments

  1. That’s an interesting way of doing things. I’ve been to the Everglades NP and loved the absence of humans there. It’s a lot like the “core areas” of our NPs. Having a preserve like Big Cypress nearby is like the “buffer zones” of our NPs, in the sense that they allow traditional activity and a limited development.

  2. You may not have stopped off here for long but you captured some beautiful scenes! I really love that shot of the heron taking off 😀 I see I.J. mentioned buffer zones. We visited on on the edge of Bardia National Park in Nepal and it operated much as you describe here. The local people are allowed to live here and graze their animals. They can gather grasses and and dead wood but aren’t allowed to fell any trees. It’s very much a compromise and helps to preserve the tighter conservation rules within the park itself.

  3. Thanks for this post. We love Big Cypress National Preserve. We’ve stopped at the Oasis visitor’s center several times as we traveled across the Tamiami Trail. We have also camped in Midway campground in the preserve. So glad you spent some time there.

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